I Love Shredding the Gnar

I love shredding the gnar, smoking dank weed, and the sweet embrace of our lord, Jesus Christ. There is nothing like hitting the bowl and then going tubular through some rip curl while your heart is filled with the words of our savior. Yesterday, after I clocked out at the bike shop, I grabbed my board and went straight for the beach. It was nothing but gnarlatious heavies and I was itching to hit them. I took the first wave I saw, which turned out to be a cruncher, and I had to bail out for sure. But, thanks to the perseverance instilled in me through Jesus’ word, I got back on my big gun and ripped through some real pounders just as the beach bunnies were starting to pop up. Like they say in Romans 12:12, “Be joyful in hope, patient in affliction, faithful in prayer,” which I think is pretty radical.

A few weeks ago, I had just toked up some Cali kush with a couple gremlins—we were totally beached—when one of them talked about feeling like he was in a spiritual bone yard. I thought, this is a primo opportunity to tell him about our lord and savior, Jesus Christ. I explained how Jesus was like this dude who totally ate it for our sins, and it’s because of him that we got this mondo responsibility to be, like, riding through the barrel of life’s waves and not the jetties. I think they were really vibing it. We even bibled out a little bit after hitting another spliff. I read them John 4:7, and was so stoked when Trev called it a “bitchin’ passage, bra,” because I like so agree.  It felt like JC was in that room taking hits with us, which was a totally off the Richter sensation.

Sometimes in life, whether it’s when there are too many spongers in the way of some real nice hot-dogging, or when I take a sand facial after getting nailed on a pounder, I find that it’s super easy to be stuck in the ankle busters. It’s times like that when I gotta remind myself about Proverbs 4:23, which is all like  “Keep thy heart with all diligence; for out of it are the issues of life.” So then I’m all like, maxed out again on God’s love and stuff, which I think is pretty carved.

If it weren’t for the faith I had in Jesus Christ, I never would have tried a double spinner on a breaker at the Long Beach amateur tourney. I so would have bailed out. But, I had God on my side and we were like, doing a tandem on my stick. I got second place that day and the bunnies were lining up to check out my trophy, which was pretty boss.

I’m excited for the La Jolla open. Supposed to be a lot of nice honkers there. I’m thinking of shooting the tube a couple times. I think that would be sweet. But, whether or not I shred or get pitted, I know I got the most far out partner in JC, which gets me pretty stoked.

DZ ’16